Our extensive knowledge and experience can help you quickly solve a bunny problem that may seem more troublesome than usual.
As a BunnyLuv client you are provided with unique methods of

that ensures a level of communication between you and your rabbit you hadn't thought possible!!! Email us to become a client.

Like anything in life, it's easy if you know how!
Welcome to the World of Bunny Luv!

     General Information

The following is general information for all bunny owners covering:

Outdoor Rabbits: We believe cages should be sized according to the amount of time the rabbit will be enclosed in it. If a rabbit is to be continuously penned it should have a minimum of 8 feet of flat ground to run and jump in. Wire bottoms of old style hutches are TERRIBLE for rabbit feet. Cover them with hay or even inverted carpet to eliminate foot problems, carpet to be removed and replaced with each bedding change.

In outdoor pens we apply fresh hay to the floors once a week, remove soiled hay as needed and remove all bedding once a month.

Within the cage should be a wooden house that the rabbit can call its own, doubling as a platform for the rabbit to sit watch on. Extra platforms provide alternative vantage points as well as exercise.

Wiring the bottom of a ground cage creates security.Rabbits are amazingly efficient diggers, and layering hay creates a challenging environment the rabbit can arrange as it likes.

Outdoor rabbits will choose one place in their cage to poop. You can place a litter pan in that spot to make for easier cleaning.

up to list

Indoor Rabbits: They can survive quite happily in small spaces. Cages should be no smaller than 4 ft long by 2 ft high by 2 ft wide for a medium rabbit of 5 to 7lbs, but they MUST be allowed to run EVERY DAY or at a MINIMUM, every other day. A single room or a hallway with the doors closed provides plenty of room for a rabbit to run.

They also need a house within their cage to call their own.

Litterboxes should be filled with clay, hay or woodchips only, no clumping or scented litters. Lionheads should be in hay, clay or wood pellets only as the woodchips become tangled in their hair and get into their eyes.

Litterbox training is a natural act for rabbits and simple to do when you use their instincts!

up to list

Exercise: Your rabbit needs exercise as much as it needs love! Indoors try toys of cloth, balls with bells, towels, leaves, flowerpots with bottoms cut out. Try different things to see what they like, and write us if you discover something new!

Backyard running should be done only after you have made sure the yard is secure. There should be no escape holes and rabbits should be supervised or on leashes at all times. Digging is a favorite pastime and you would be surprised how quickly a rabbit can dig under a fence!

up to list

Food: apples, pears, peaches, cherries, apricots, carrots, red cabbage, cauliflower greens and stalks, broccoli, banana, fruit leathers, tops from radish, carrots, turnips, spinach, dark leafed lettuces, fresh herbs like corriander, parsley, green grass, unsalted soda crackers, graham crackers, unsalted sunflower seeds with shell, rose petals(unsprayed and washed), popcorn(unsalted).

Experiment and find new foods you both like!

As an herbivore your rabbit will want to nibble anything that grows but some things are NOT SO GOOD. Like large amounts of green cabbage, cauliflower and broccoli florets, iceberg lettuce, mushrooms, peanuts and cashews, tomatoes and ALL HOUSEPLANTS (just to be safe).

Some VERY BAD things for bunnies to eat are potatoes (especially the plants), chocolate, cheese, coffee, pop, alcohol, sugared cereals, potato chips, cigarettes! (deadly).

Remember that chewing is a method of testing, all things usually get a nibble just to see what they are. Keep the bad stuff out of reach!

With a varied diet of fresh food plus hay and kibble, your rabbit should receive an adequate supply of vitamins and minerals. They do not need salt or mineral blocks.

Rabbits need wood to chew -we recommend fruit woods, apple, apricot, pear, peach or cherry if you can find it. Rabbits especially like the new shoots and branches from those trees, but commercial woodchew products are a fine substitute. Make sure all wood, shoots and branches are washed and unsprayed.

Don't buy your rabbit a bone for chewing.There are such things packaged for rabbits. Your rabbit is a strict herbivore and chewing on a bone is quite repellant to them!

up to list

We do not give our rabbits water from bottles - we feel they must work too hard to get a good drink. We use 10 oz stainless steel bird feeder cups, available in any pet store were parrot supplies are sold. A wide mouthed coffee cup or handled soup bowl can also be used.Use a twist tie to attach handle to cage to prevent spills. You might be surprised how much your rabbit will drink, given the chance.

Waterbowls must be rinsed and cleaned every day.

Indoor and outdoor temperatures affect your rabbit the same way they do you. Imagine summer with a fur coat! Remember - heat is a rabbit killer! When in doubt, provide your rabbit with an iced container, like a pop bottle of frozen water to lay next to.

up to list

Behavior:  Remember a Rabbit's Credo: "I'm sure I'm going to be eaten!". All of your rabbit's behavior is based on that idea.

Be aware of your rabbit's fears. A rabbit sees an open hand as a claw and a big smile of white teeth as a threat.

A well mannered rabbit does not chew on your furniture or electrical cords, bite and scratch when it is picked up or ignore the litterbox. But a well mannered rabbit is dependant on your early relationship and early bonding with your rabbit is important to success.

Our clients use a special 'Lick and Chew' technique every time they take their rabbits out of a cage to assure their rabbits of their safety and to cement life long friendships!

Bad rabbit behaviour is usually the result of fear, boredom or owner/rabbit miscommunication. Our clients use a gentle 'PREDATOR HOLD' when showing a rabbit what is Not Allowed and are consistent in enforcing it. The rabbit learns quickly and wants to please.

A consistantly shy rabbit is insecure. Does your rabbit have a place of its own to retreat to at all times(inside cage and out)? When it is frightened does it turn its face into the corner, struggle wildly or bite when picked up, urinate freely outside litterbox? This behavior should be addressed, your bunny is unhappy!!

Perhaps we can help.

Boy rabbits love to explore, discovering what is behind each cushion and every piece of furniture. They go exploring, then come back to check on you, maybe wanting to have an ear scratched. Boys will often give small "bites" to their owners - this is not aggression but ownership - you're mine, he says.

Girl rabbits will explore to discover the boundaries of their territory, then be content to live within them. They will spend more time sitting beside you, enjoying the quiet times.

A healthy rabbit rarely requires a vaccination unless it is to be exposed to other rabbits. Rabbit diseases are highly contagious and deadly. The choice is yours. An ill rabbit will refuse to eat, hides in a dark place, has diarrhea or no pellets at all and will not respond to you. Consult your vet immediately!